In order to understand why this question pops up so much, it’s necessary to understand the history of African-descended people in Russia and former Soviet republics. In my research on the web, I was surprised to discover that black folks have long had a presence in what was known as the USSR: according to this article, hundreds of African-Americans travelled to the region between 1920 and 1930 in an attempt to make a better life for themselves, as well as to escape the economic strife and racial persecution they faced in the USA.
Blacks from the African continent weren’t far behind: this article explains that they relocated to the Soviet Union in large numbers, recruited by officials promising a free university education. The social climate for black people at that time was thus good, with skilled black labourers and professionals often receiving red carpet treatment in the form of enviable salaries and subsidized housing.
But this contrasts sharply with recent depictions of race relations in Russia. A quick Google search reveals articles about hostility against blacks across the country, which at its “best” has included verbal abuse (like the racial epithets hurled at black soccer players by fans during matches) and at its worst has culminated in outright physical violence during games on Russian soil.
It’s thus no surprise that black travellers of the present day are concerned about their safety and well-being while travelling in Russia. Will “Travelling While Black” on Russian soil put them in harm’s way?
The short version: I had no issues at all during my time in Moscow and St. Petersburg– in fact, I was treated exceptionally well. I got a *lot* of love from local people and this was shocking to me based on what I’d heard and read about race relations in Russia.
The long version: I felt like I was received with open arms during my stay. I got some curious looks, but none of the long, laser-focused stares I’ve encountered in many parts of Asia. People were extremely polite, helpful and cordial, especially in Moscow, which is decidedly the most “Russian” of the two cities (St. Petersburg looks and feels very Western European. I also found it to be way more touristy and easier to navigate as English, as opposed to just Russian language, is written and spoken far more widely than in Moscow). Here are some examples of the encounters I had in Moscow that stuck out to me most: